The mountains you should not climb

Mountains of the world

I remember the faint lines of a huge triangular mass of rock and snow, surrounded by cloud vortices, one summer from a bus window over the famous Pokhara Valley and its famous city of Nepal. Seeing the impressive peaks overlooking the bustling city skyline was different from the first glimpse of the Himalayas I experienced during a decade of traveling in the Himalayas of India or Nepal. It was so interesting that I did not have to walk for days to get a glimpse of the beauty of the hand Have unattainable. I just had to sit on the bus.

The mountain that inadvertently aroused my imagination was neither Everest nor the other seven mountains in a country more than 8,000 meters high, but its height is so low that it easily betrays its beauty. It was a mountain After all; I was not alone in my obsession. Decades before me, another man fell in love with this mountain and left a very strange legacy.

Machhapuchhare, meaning, “fish tail”, is the iconic 6,993-meter Annapurna Mountains in central Nepal, comprising three of the world is ten highest peaks. Machhapuchhare is still far from the very high mountains of Mount Annapurna, so stealing the show is easy.

The geographical location of the peak makes it easy to see different profiles from different places, and its astonishing superiority in vertical vibrations at any angle or distance is inevitable. The Machhapuchhare double peak is as attractive as the tip of a sloping, symmetrical triangle, with two spikes rotating toward each other and connected by sharp ridges.


After the first glance, I returned to Nepal several times and always had time to see my favorite mountains. I spent a few days in Pokhara and saw the sublime reflections of Machhapuchhare on Lake Phewa. Others spent the early hours of the morning watching the afternoon sunshine brightly on the steep peaks of the rural slopes around Lake Begnas. Other days, he looked at the mountains from ridges such as Sarangut and Astam around the Pokhara Valley.

One winter I finally reached a small mountain camp called Mardi Himal below Machhapuchhare. Founded in 2012, this 40-day five-day short walk reaches an altitude of 4,500 meters and offers one of the most beautiful and spectacular places in Machhapuchhare. Another 1,000 meters to the Mardi Gras summit is the closest place to reach the summit.


Because climbing to Machapchar forbidden. Unusual for a country like Nepal, which is a mountain tourism enthusiast, even the 8848-meter peak of Mount Everest, the highest point in the world, is crowded. However, why Machhapuchhare remains an undeveloped peak, and the explosion of commercial and mountaineering in Nepal today can attribute to one man, Lt. Col. James Owen Million Roberts (1916-1997).

Jimmy Roberts, as he is widely known, was a famous British army officer who played a significant role in the rise of Nepal and the Himalayas. Roberts was appoint the first military attaché in Nepal in 1958. He used his position, passion and knowledge in the Himalayas for the economy and local life of Nepal.


Not only was he a pioneer in the golden age of Himalayan exploration, but he also made the world-famous when he founded the country’s first mountaineering agency, Mountain Travel, in 1964. Today it is synonymous with walking in the Himalayas. As a result, he is still referring to as Nikki, the “father of marching” in Nepal.

Roberts’ interest in Pokhara and Machapuchare began after reading a 1936 expedition from Nepal written by an army officer. Army officers write about a strange city on the shores of mountains and lakes. “It quickly became obsessive about seeing Pokhara and Machhapuchhare and the village where my subordinates lived,” Roberts said in the book’s preface, especially the Gurong [one of the main Gorka tribes in the Himalayas]. I am writing Wilfried Nose Tail. “But at the time, the interior of Nepal was a no-go area and closed more securely than Mecca and Lhasa.”


Mountains are sacred and therefore forbidden

Today, it is widely believed that mountains are sacred and therefore forbidden. “The Machhapuchhare summit is not meant to be trampled, it just loves his eyes,” Pokhara’s old poet and resident Tirta Sheresta told me. I explained that I do not think so. It was open for mountaineering. “The discourse on the beauty of the whole Himalayas, not just Pokhara, is incomplete without mentioning Machhapuchhare. Its beauty has greatly influenced poets, writers and artists. In many famous songs, the mountains praised. Machhapuchhare” “For us, the world of beauty.”

Neither Roberts nor I disagree. No one has traveled to Mount Mardi Himal or near the public valley of Pukhara. As you pass through the rhododendron groves in the low hills, sometimes floating to the highest point of the Annapurna Mountains, the Machhapuchhare peak always dominates the horizon and exposed to strange threats. In addition, the Forbidden Summit was deceptively accessible and somehow made it more attractive.



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